A fluted bezel and a shell dial set with diamonds is the Datejust 126231 at its most elaborate, and nothing about it is subtle. Three separate things are competing for light here, and the mother-of-pearl is the only one that changes with the angle. That variability is what keeps the whole arrangement from looking static, which a plain dial certainly would in this setting. It is the dial this particular reference tends to be remembered for now.

The 36 mm case is Stainless Steel and the fluted bezel above it is cast in Everose Gold. White mother-of-pearl fills the dial, and diamonds in gold settings stand where the hour markers would be. A Cyclops lens magnifies the date at three, and baton hands cross the shell surface beneath. Five-piece Jubilee links run Everose Gold centers between Stainless Steel edges, closing on a folding Oysterclasp with a comfort extension.

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